WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

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flatheadDave
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WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#1

Post by flatheadDave »

Sorry for the lack of knowledge. I could not find info from some searches for a 32e generator in a mag set up with no battery.

Since the 3rd brush is the regulating brush, would I need an additional regulator ? And I’m assuming I can eliminate the cut out relay as well since there’s no battery? So does that mean I can run a wire from the relay terminal post on the 32e gen, and go straight to my lights? I understand yes a fuse in there and I’ve also read and been told about using a large capacitor.
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#2

Post by RUBONE »

Rewire as a 2 brush and use a two component regulator.

app.php/knowledgebase/article?k=223
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#3

Post by kitabel »

With no battery to act as a surge tank, any excess voltage blows out all of your lights when the engine revs.
The capacitor helps.
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#4

Post by RUBONE »

You will need the -47 or 47A regulator or if you want a little one use one from an early Sprint, also 6V made by Bosch.

And if you are drag racing, leave the generator off or remove the gear, it creates lots of power loss.
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#5

Post by flatheadDave »

I’m planning on pulling the generator during the race. I would like to be able to break this bike in riding to and from work. At night too, when it’s cool and no traffic, then I can shoot up the feeder road and mess with the needles while going 40 up a hill. So I need to install sometime of electrical system. I have the 32e generator. I have a 6 volt regulator. I have a relay cutout. And a capacitor. And also a cutout to cover the generator hole when it’s pulled. I also have a little tiny 6 volt battery.so I’m trying to decide how to do this set up with a headlight and tail.
RUBONE wrote: Wed Feb 15, 2023 8:10 pm You will need the -47 or 47A regulator or if you want a little one use one from an early Sprint, also 6V made by Bosch.

And if you are drag racing, leave the generator off or remove the gear, it creates lots of power loss.
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#6

Post by flatheadDave »

I’m planning on pulling the generator during the race. I would like to be able to break this bike in riding to and from work. At night too, when it’s cool and no traffic, then I can shoot up the feeder road and mess with the needles while going 40 up a hill. So I need to install sometime of electrical system. I have the 32e generator. I have a 6 volt regulator. I have a relay cutout. And a capacitor. And also a cutout to cover the generator hole when it’s pulled. I also have a little tiny 6 volt battery.so I’m trying to decide how to do this set up with a headlight and tail. At least temporarily to break in. I have a 6 volt springer headlight style bucket.

flatheadDave wrote: Thu Feb 16, 2023 6:22 am
RUBONE wrote: Wed Feb 15, 2023 8:10 pm You will need the -47 or 47A regulator or if you want a little one use one from an early Sprint, also 6V made by Bosch.

And if you are drag racing, leave the generator off or remove the gear, it creates lots of power loss.
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#7

Post by flatheadDave »

I just want to eliminate the dash switch and right now I don’t want to convert the 3 brush to two. I’d really like to give this a shot and see about a more simple wiring set up. I have a battery and the relay. I’m a little confused to where the lighting power comes from, from the diagrams it’s coming directly from the switch post on the 32e generator. So can i hook my headlight light directly to that post? I’m assuming no, but how does the lighting circuit mechanically work though? When the second position on the dash switch is clicked, the lights are connected to the switch wire from the generator. Right? Doesn’t this mean I can just connect directly to the gen or am I missing something fundemental about the 6 volt 3 brush charging system

Like I said. I just want to remove the dash switch with this 32e gen. I’ll put an on off switch at the battery ground to frame.
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flatheadDave
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#8

Post by flatheadDave »

Found this
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Frankenstein
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#9

Post by Frankenstein »

I assume the "yellow Peril" is the 45 in question? Cool.
Here's what you need to do to carry out your plan.
Like the picture shows, run a wire from the Generator "relay" terminal to the Cutout. If necessary, add a wire from the "switch" terminal on the genny to the "relay" terminal on the genny. I'll explain why later.
Run a wire from the relay to the positive term on the battery. (ground the neg battery term.)
Run a wire from the Battery positive terminal to your "On-Off" switch that will turn on your lights when you want them.
Run another wire from this switch to the head and tail light
Screw the brake light, you're never going to slow down anyway :D
Done.

I presume you will yank the spark plug wires or run a wire from the magneto terminal to ground when you want to stop the engine.

O.K, how the 3 brush generator works-it works in a simple, unsophisticated manner.
When it is spun by the motor, it has some internal connections that makes it output voltage from the "Relay" terminal.
As it spins faster, the voltage goes higher,..... and higher.... and higher. Until it maxes out at about 18-22 volts.
It will deliver about 5-6 amps of juice to any load you hook up to it. Preferably you hook the generator to whatever your load is through the "Cutout".
The cutout is a one way switch, it lets juice go from the genny to your loads, but blocks electricity from something like a battery from back feeding the generator when stopped. ( if this happened the battery would try to spin the generator like a motor and make stuff get hot and make wires smoke, etc.
That's the basics of the generator.
You notice that the generator will make up to 18-22 volts. The cutout does not affect how much voltage the genny makes. It's just a one way switch.
However, if you hook a battery to the generator's output, the battery will limit how high the output voltage will go. A battery will just soak up the extra voltage, and turn the water in the battery electrolyte into steam in the process .
You will notice that no transistors, capacitors, resistors,or microprocessors were involved in this process. That's how it was done in the 19 'teens, 'Twenties and 'Thirties when you wanted to control a generator's output voltage. Simple, effective, messy.
Harley added some sophistication to this system by adding an additional terminal to the 32E genny. They added the "switch" terminal to the genny to help control the genny's output. Supplying voltage to this terminal increased generator output.

They designed the generator's internals so that under normal use, the generator's output was adequate to run a coil and brake light at normal speeds, in daylight hours. Hopefully, the output was a close enough to match the loads and leave a little to keep the battery charged.
They added an adjustment to fine tune this process; it's called the "third brush".
We won't go into that can of worms today. :D If you're really driven to screw with your genny, though, adjust the brush so that it's set midrange in it's travel. That's usually close enough for government work.

O.K, Back to your wiring system. If you have problems keeping your battery charged with the system wired as I described earlier, you can add the additional wire on your generator, as I mentioned earlier, to increase it's output. Connect a wire from the "Relay" terminal on the genny to the "switch" terminal. This will send a little power back into the generator and increase it's output. This is what the wire in the stock wiring harness does that runs from your stock switch down to the "switch" terminal on the genny. If you need to know, it turns on another field inside the genny, which is essentially adding another electromagnet to the circuit and bumps up the generator's output.
Because all you want to do is just run 2 bulbs, and if you make them LED bulbs, you might not need to bother.
Hope this helps,
DD
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#10

Post by RUBONE »

That little battery likely won't work, or work for long, with a relay system. It will be randomly overcharged and will fail.
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#11

Post by Frankenstein »

On a regular street bike, for sure a small sealed battery would be toast in short order. But, on a mag fired machine, where all you need is to run two lights, and if the battery boils dry you're still going to get home just fine, I'd say give 'er a go. especially if you don't activate the "lighting" field, and maybe crank down the third brush. In fact, the LED lights might not even torch out from the high voltage. Just speculation, (and I'm ain't gonna try it on my bike) :D , but the LED's might just get Really Bright!
Have Fun
DD
flatheadDave
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#12

Post by flatheadDave »

I’ve been using these sealed lead 12amp 6volt batteries in a couple of 45s with 6volt generators and haven’t had an issue at all.

Frankenstein wrote: Thu Mar 09, 2023 2:37 am On a regular street bike, for sure a small sealed battery would be toast in short order. But, on a mag fired machine, where all you need is to run two lights, and if the battery boils dry you're still going to get home just fine, I'd say give 'er a go. especially if you don't activate the "lighting" field, and maybe crank down the third brush. In fact, the LED lights might not even torch out from the high voltage. Just speculation, (and I'm ain't gonna try it on my bike) :D , but the LED's might just get Really Bright!
Have Fun
DD
flatheadDave
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#13

Post by flatheadDave »

Great! This is exactly what I was looking for. Anxiously awaiting to wire it up ! I’ll let you know what happens. That was the one thing I couldn’t figure. I knew there was a jumper somewhere. Between the two terminals makes sense. The second shunt coil becomes activated with the positive electricity from the relay terminal on the generator.
Frankenstein wrote: Wed Mar 08, 2023 2:01 pm I assume the "yellow Peril" is the 45 in question? Cool.
Here's what you need to do to carry out your plan.
Like the picture shows, run a wire from the Generator "relay" terminal to the Cutout. If necessary, add a wire from the "switch" terminal on the genny to the "relay" terminal on the genny. I'll explain why later.
Run a wire from the relay to the positive term on the battery. (ground the neg battery term.)
Run a wire from the Battery positive terminal to your "On-Off" switch that will turn on your lights when you want them.
Run another wire from this switch to the head and tail light
Screw the brake light, you're never going to slow down anyway :D
Done.

I presume you will yank the spark plug wires or run a wire from the magneto terminal to ground when you want to stop the engine.

O.K, how the 3 brush generator works-it works in a simple, unsophisticated manner.
When it is spun by the motor, it has some internal connections that makes it output voltage from the "Relay" terminal.
As it spins faster, the voltage goes higher,..... and higher.... and higher. Until it maxes out at about 18-22 volts.
It will deliver about 5-6 amps of juice to any load you hook up to it. Preferably you hook the generator to whatever your load is through the "Cutout".
The cutout is a one way switch, it lets juice go from the genny to your loads, but blocks electricity from something like a battery from back feeding the generator when stopped. ( if this happened the battery would try to spin the generator like a motor and make stuff get hot and make wires smoke, etc.
That's the basics of the generator.
You notice that the generator will make up to 18-22 volts. The cutout does not affect how much voltage the genny makes. It's just a one way switch.
However, if you hook a battery to the generator's output, the battery will limit how high the output voltage will go. A battery will just soak up the extra voltage, and turn the water in the battery electrolyte into steam in the process .
You will notice that no transistors, capacitors, resistors,or microprocessors were involved in this process. That's how it was done in the 19 'teens, 'Twenties and 'Thirties when you wanted to control a generator's output voltage. Simple, effective, messy.
Harley added some sophistication to this system by adding an additional terminal to the 32E genny. They added the "switch" terminal to the genny to help control the genny's output. Supplying voltage to this terminal increased generator output.

They designed the generator's internals so that under normal use, the generator's output was adequate to run a coil and brake light at normal speeds, in daylight hours. Hopefully, the output was a close enough to match the loads and leave a little to keep the battery charged.
They added an adjustment to fine tune this process; it's called the "third brush".
We won't go into that can of worms today. :D If you're really driven to screw with your genny, though, adjust the brush so that it's set midrange in it's travel. That's usually close enough for government work.

O.K, Back to your wiring system. If you have problems keeping your battery charged with the system wired as I described earlier, you can add the additional wire on your generator, as I mentioned earlier, to increase it's output. Connect a wire from the "Relay" terminal on the genny to the "switch" terminal. This will send a little power back into the generator and increase it's output. This is what the wire in the stock wiring harness does that runs from your stock switch down to the "switch" terminal on the genny. If you need to know, it turns on another field inside the genny, which is essentially adding another electromagnet to the circuit and bumps up the generator's output.
Because all you want to do is just run 2 bulbs, and if you make them LED bulbs, you might not need to bother.
Hope this helps,
DD
flatheadDave
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#14

Post by flatheadDave »

It worked! Thank you! I set a little switch on the frame back by the seat. And did the wiring like you said. Jumped the F to the A on the generator and the lights work and there is a charge going to the battery!!



Frankenstein wrote: Wed Mar 08, 2023 2:01 pm I assume the "yellow Peril" is the 45 in question? Cool.
Here's what you need to do to carry out your plan.
Like the picture shows, run a wire from the Generator "relay" terminal to the Cutout. If necessary, add a wire from the "switch" terminal on the genny to the "relay" terminal on the genny. I'll explain why later.
Run a wire from the relay to the positive term on the battery. (ground the neg battery term.)
Run a wire from the Battery positive terminal to your "On-Off" switch that will turn on your lights when you want them.
Run another wire from this switch to the head and tail light
Screw the brake light, you're never going to slow down anyway :D
Done.

I presume you will yank the spark plug wires or run a wire from the magneto terminal to ground when you want to stop the engine.

O.K, how the 3 brush generator works-it works in a simple, unsophisticated manner.
When it is spun by the motor, it has some internal connections that makes it output voltage from the "Relay" terminal.
As it spins faster, the voltage goes higher,..... and higher.... and higher. Until it maxes out at about 18-22 volts.
It will deliver about 5-6 amps of juice to any load you hook up to it. Preferably you hook the generator to whatever your load is through the "Cutout".
The cutout is a one way switch, it lets juice go from the genny to your loads, but blocks electricity from something like a battery from back feeding the generator when stopped. ( if this happened the battery would try to spin the generator like a motor and make stuff get hot and make wires smoke, etc.
That's the basics of the generator.
You notice that the generator will make up to 18-22 volts. The cutout does not affect how much voltage the genny makes. It's just a one way switch.
However, if you hook a battery to the generator's output, the battery will limit how high the output voltage will go. A battery will just soak up the extra voltage, and turn the water in the battery electrolyte into steam in the process .
You will notice that no transistors, capacitors, resistors,or microprocessors were involved in this process. That's how it was done in the 19 'teens, 'Twenties and 'Thirties when you wanted to control a generator's output voltage. Simple, effective, messy.
Harley added some sophistication to this system by adding an additional terminal to the 32E genny. They added the "switch" terminal to the genny to help control the genny's output. Supplying voltage to this terminal increased generator output.

They designed the generator's internals so that under normal use, the generator's output was adequate to run a coil and brake light at normal speeds, in daylight hours. Hopefully, the output was a close enough to match the loads and leave a little to keep the battery charged.
They added an adjustment to fine tune this process; it's called the "third brush".
We won't go into that can of worms today. :D If you're really driven to screw with your genny, though, adjust the brush so that it's set midrange in it's travel. That's usually close enough for government work.

O.K, Back to your wiring system. If you have problems keeping your battery charged with the system wired as I described earlier, you can add the additional wire on your generator, as I mentioned earlier, to increase it's output. Connect a wire from the "Relay" terminal on the genny to the "switch" terminal. This will send a little power back into the generator and increase it's output. This is what the wire in the stock wiring harness does that runs from your stock switch down to the "switch" terminal on the genny. If you need to know, it turns on another field inside the genny, which is essentially adding another electromagnet to the circuit and bumps up the generator's output.
Because all you want to do is just run 2 bulbs, and if you make them LED bulbs, you might not need to bother.
Hope this helps,
DD
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Re: WIRING A 32e GENERATOR BIKE WITH MAGNETO

#15

Post by Frankenstein »

Glad to hear it!
DD
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